8 September 2013 1:20 pm
Sailing on Serannity with Lew and Ann Tucker, old sailing friends of Kent's, from Eyemouth north of Berwick-upon-Tweed to London.
After an afternoon walking the Royal Mile in Edinburgh, and taking a photo of me in front of 6 Nelson street where Ed, Jesse, and I lived for nearly 3 months in 1979 (we now stayed across the street at a lovely B an B 11 Nelson Street), we took the bus to Eyemouth through lovely country villages, arriving in Eyemouth in a gale and downpour requiring our pack covers and parkas as we trekked along the waterfront in search of the boat with an American flag flying. We spied it through the blowing rain, and walked all around the harbor to reach it on the other side. Lew had gone looking for us, but Ann warmly welcomed us two drowned rats.
9 September Sunday 1:30 p.m.
Dropping anchor at Lindisfarne (Holy Island). Weather is brisk.
We left Eyemouth about 9, taking about an hourto get fuel. There were some fairly big swells as we traveled along the shore where we had walked yesterday.
We saw many seals poking up their heads to look at us we passed. We passed a fishing boat with people on deck.
Yesterday I walked around in the morning, and Kent and I did errands for Ann, getting stamps for many postcards, vitamins at the pharmacy, and a few things at the grocery store, finally buying scones at the bakery.
In the afternoon we walked along the spectacular cliff side coastal path between a scenic golf course ( I saw no golf carts and no women) and crashing waves on black rocks below, getting back in time for dinner at OBLO, which was a surprisingly elegant pub. Three of us had the evening special of sea bass, teriyaki mushrooms, soy meringues, and braised pak choi. Kent had peppardelle with mushrooms. Desserts: Eton Mess (meringue fruit and cream), raspberry cheesecake (not really cheesecake -- more like mousse), chocolate brownie with caramel ice cream, and Irish coffee. Also a bottle of white fine house wine. On the way home we encountered swans on the waterfront.
Kent and I planned to take hot showers in the evening, but even though Kent says he put 2 50 pence pieces in for hot water, we never got any hot water, and ended up with cold showers. Brr. Needless to say we didn't linger.
This afternoon we arrived at Lindisfarne, the Holy Island, where saints Cuthbert and Aidan lived, and where the Lindisfarne Gospels were created.
We went ashore in the dinghy, visited two museums and had drinks in a pub. It was a wet ride back to the boat. Castles loom in the distance on both sides. Lindisfarne to the east and Bamburgh (where Elizabeth with cate Blanchett was filmed) to the west, the ruined priory priory and stone and white-washed cottages of the village behind us. There were picturesque storage sheds made of the overturned hulls of old ships.
September 10 (tuesday)
Royal Northmberland Yacht Club
We left about 7 a.m. On Monday and motored with sail up and a light tail wind to Blyth, just north of Newcastle. Strong winds and gusts are expected today, so instead of heading back to sea, we are taking the bus to Newcastle-on-Tyne, supposedly the hip capital of the Northeast. A man we met at the bar last night described Nothumberland, bordering Scotland and full of castles, as the "wild west" of England.
Linnea and Kent
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